|
FAQ - Fans & Shrouds
Without a shroud the only part of the radiator that would work at
idle (speed under 15 mph) would be the area where the fan was located
behind the core. The shroud guarantees that air is pulled through
the complete core, resulting in optimum performance.
Most original shrouds will fit a Griffin radiator.
Griffin recommends a puller fan. The puller fan shrouds will generally
have lower airside restriction during highway operation.
You can use a fan shroud on the grill side, but it will not be as
efficient since it blocks some air flow. The fan must be designed
as a "pusher" instead of a "puller".
Sometimes a curved fan is better than a straight fan, but not always.
Given the diameter of the motor hub, the outer diameter of the fans
used on the typical race radiators curve for optimal design is minimal.
Some straight blade fans will out perform curved designs.
An electric fan generally provides better air flow at idle. At higher
speeds the improvement is minimal.
|
Griffin welds on brackets and uses bolts
Griffin’s recommendation is to use an electric thermostat
that senses bottom tank temperatures. The fan should be controlled
to come on when either the A/C comes on or the coolant temperature
exceeds a certain set point.
Yes, Griffin does have thermostatic switches for all the fans we
sell.
The CFM rating and amp draw depends on the fan. Typical CFM’s
for a 16-inch curved blade fan are 2070 and 2360 for a straight
blade. Amp draw is 17.5 and 21.5.
Griffin does not recommend using this type of mounting. The mounting
straps could wear a hole in the radiator tubes.
Griffin does not recommend the use of a flex fan. If the flex fan
is too close to the radiator the blades could flex forward causing
damage to the core. If you are using a lower gear ratio fan, it
can flatten out too fast at a lower speed and won’t pull in
as much air.
|